The drive belts on a snowmobile are meant to stand up to heat, torque, and RPM. But each rider is different, which can affect the ability of a belt to stand up to these conditions. If someone is a little aggressive on the snowmobile, it will start to take away from the longevity of the drive belt. While some are able to cross over and work well with rougher terrain, this can affect the lifespan of the drive belt. Taking a recreational sled through the backcountry will cause the drive belt to work harder, affecting how long it can be operational.
Once the drive belt starts to get old, it will decrease in function. There are a few things to look for in a bad or aging snowmobile drive belt. This video from Polaris Snowmobiles does a great job letting you know when to check and replace your snowmobile belt. A drive belt that needs to be replaced can slow the overall acceleration of the snowmobile.
It often starts on hills or during more rugged terrain, but as the belt gets older, it struggles to accelerate anywhere. Some riders report that this feel like the snowmobile is actually starting in second gear. Drivers report this as one of the key symptoms in determining whether or not a belt is getting closed to needing to be replaced.
This is an issue if the sled has had to work particularly hard throughout some of its belt life. Although you can sometimes revive a glazed belt, replacement is usually the best bet. Cracks or holes in a belt are a sure sign that it needs to be replaced. Clearly, a broken belt is a big problem.
If a belt breaks, it will need to be replaced. Especially when belts snap in between cogs. A burnt rubber smell is never a good sign. Let the gas drain out. Congratulations, your sled will now live longer. You should not need to replace tracks every year unless you do a lot of time on the road and then the question is why are you riding on the road?
In the forums, you will find tales of people with year-old tracks so that they can last a long time. There is no way to prevent these cracks as this happens to all rubber, the best you can do to delay it is to store your sled away from sunlight and keep it somewhere dry. You might rip a few lugs off from mistakes riding, and you can get away with one or two missing from this. They will have a clean breakage point. If the breaking point looks fatigued or crumbling, then your track is getting old and is starting to degrade.
Changing your track if this is happening is a priority. Your tracks then can have a load of miles or not very many but can deteriorate. Your drive belts are an integral part of your snowmobile, you are not going anywhere without them, but many people do not take care of them, do not be that person. Sure your belt may seem like a few fibers and a circle pattern, but they are made to work with high tolerances, so any mistreatment and you will be heading down the auto parts store to get new ones.
The professional answer is that belts should last around miles. If you are riding a big beast and are throttle-happy, you will be bringing that average down. If you are cruising trails with no powder, you will be pulling that average up. Your belt will last longer if you correctly break it in. Fitting new belts and then just pulling the throttle is not going to do your bank account or your new belts that world of good. Please break them in gently.
Run them through three heat cycles and at the same time not get more than half-throttle on them while you run through the cycles. Smokey Expert. Joined Apr 21, Messages Location Winnipeg. I have close to 7, miles on my belt. Belt deflection. I added washers and got it even with the top of the secondary. Any higher was not possible because I get belt squeel at idle. The shims are actually a pretty easy way to adjust the ride height in the secondary.
Add a shim and you allow the secondary to close the thickness of the shim further, and that raises the belt, which lowers the gear ratio you experienc at take off. I do not know how senitve the Apexs are to this, Not very I suspect. I know my prior Yamaha's would slightly 'bog' at take off, as though in to high a gear, but just slightly.
Not near as sensitive as my and friends Polaris, there would be a major BOG.. If you are trail riding no big deal. Man I love this sled Yamadoo. Yummy Lifetime Member. My experience and what I do is changing after miles and keep it as a spare.
But the problem now I have is lots a spare belt!!!!! But that' s ok and I can live with that. Also, always use OEM Yamaha belt and forget about other make. Comparing different brand clutches is definitely comparing apples and oranges.
They are not the same. Joined Apr 13, Messages 5, Location Somewhere in that frozen wasteland north of the bo. I'm lucky to get mi out of a belt. Damned thing is geared too high out of the box, burns on engagement with any resistance. Highmiler Expert. Blowing belts If sled doesn't bog when taking off, then no need to adjust belt deflection. As belt wears, it gets thinner, thus sinking into the rear clutch sheaves and creating a bog as illustrated earlier. Only then should you adjust belt deflection.
My mountain just developed a clutch bog last weekend and it's about time because the belt has almost miles on it. My 05 has on the original belt and still haven't had to do any adjustments yet. Joined May 14, Messages 5, Location Kieler wis. I ride it like its stollen.. For maximum performance.. You will know if the belt is going bad if the engine starts to rev higher than it did when the belt was new..
Thanks for all of the replies and good information.
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